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There are many things to consider before purchasing your first alpacas.  Will you have room for the animals, or will you have to agist (board) them?  How many will you start with?  ( you need at least two, three is better...alpacas don't like to be alone)  Do you feel comfortable enough with your knowledge to buy pregnant animals or will you start with fiber quality geldings to get the hang of it?  Do you have a mobile vet service nearby?  How about one with some experience in Camelids?  Do you have a mentor farm you can trust?  Who will watch the animals when you go to work?  When you go on vacation?  Are you a good learner, will you commit to going to some seminars and classes to learn what you need to know? 

   Farm Setup/Layout

You will need shelter for these animals.  They are very hardy and accustomed to cold weather climates, but they prefer to stay out of strong wind and rain.  They will, however, graze right through light rain.  Some farms use three sided run-in sheds, but most prefer to have a barn.  Then you can at least have a place to keep equipment, hay and feed, etc, even if your alpacas prefer to sleep outside most of the time (which they will).  You will need to divide your barn using gate panels or stalls so that there is at least a boys' side and a girls' side.  Males and females cannot run together.  You'll also find you'll need a pasture for weaning, males visiting for breeding, the occasional sick animal or brand new Mom and baby (We put them in at night for the first week or so).  Sometimes older males will be rough with weanlings, so you may need a division there, too.  So, most experienced alpaca breeders will recommend at least 4 or 5 divisions that have barn access and pasture access to allow for rotation.  Many farms do well with a central barn and pastures radiating out like pie wedges.  The animals need at least a partially shaded area and will prefer this area to being in the barn.  In our opinion, the perfect setup would have a 14-18 ft overhang around the barn to provide shade with pastures accessible from there.  It seems you can never have enough little gates to open or close to rotate pastures or divide areas if necessary. 

At Tick Ridge, we have a 40' X 40' barn that was already on the property.  It has 3 stalls across the front and one in the back as it was designed for horses.  Since alpacas prefer to be able to see their herd-mates, and don't really like to be alone, this setup is not perfect.  We have adapted it to make it as alpaca friendly as possible.  Our barn also has hay storage in the upstairs loft, which we really like, but I know some people prefer to have first floor hay storage or even a separate building. 

No matter what kind of barn you choose, no matter how elaborate or expensive, it's guaranteed your alpacas will sleep out in the snow and wake up with a blanket of however-many-inches-came-down-overnight piled on their backs!

   Fencing

Most farms prefer to use a combination of strategies to keep their alpacas contained and protected.  Alpacas do not challenge fences.  In fact they can easily be rounded up with a piece of rope stretched between two people, as they will not cross the rope.  The real reason for good fencing for alpacas is to keep other animals out.  Stray dogs and coyotes are an alpaca's worst nightmare.  Alpacas are very afraid of strange dogs, so they often will just freeze.  They are sprinters, so they run from danger, but sprinters can only run for a short time.  Dogs can kill alpacas just by chasing them.  They'll chase until the alpacas can't run anymore or they'll cause them to jump fences by cornering them. (happened here! Before our Guardian dog)  They can also hurt themselves on fences or trees in their frenzy to get away from dogs.  The alpaca loses in all these situations.  This is a very real danger.  Keeping dogs and coyotes out of your pastures is top priority!

The fence that seems to be most preferred in the alpaca industry is called "No-climb"  It is dog-proof.  It has 2" x 4" openings so crias cannot get stuck in it by accident.  Metal fence with larger openings, or the kind that gets smaller toward the ground is regarded as dangerous, as crias or even adult alpacas can get their heads through the openings and then get caught.  Fences need to be at least 4 foot high, five is better!

An added layer of security can be provided by adding a strand of electric fence at the bottom and/or top of this type of fence.  On the outside!  Some people lay a strand of barbwire along the ground or bury it an inch deep on the outside of the fence to discourage dogs from digging under. 

   Guardian dogs/ Sentinel Llamas

Adding one of these herd protectors is simply a matter of personal preference, and will be dictated partially by the type of predators you have in your area.  There are differences, though in the level of protection these guardian animals can give to your herd. 

Livestock Guardian Dogs are certain breeds of dog bred specifically to live with and protect livestock.  Breeds include Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherd, Maremma, Kuvasz and Komondor.   These breeds are "hardwired" for this specific job, and under no circumstances should you use a breed other than a Livestock Guardian for this important job.  Other breeds, even those considered Guard dogs, have as strong predator chase instinct that cannot be trained out.  Livestock Guardian Dogs are highly territorial and will not allow intruders, especially other dogs, to enter the pastures.  They will give their life against a  pack of coyotes or a mountain lion or bear to protect their herd.  These dogs are raised from infancy with the livestock, so they have the best of what nature and nurture can offer them in the way of natural instinct and bonding to protect their herd.  They truly see these animals as their herd of big puppies, and will sleep amongst them.  A good LGD is gentle to animals and humans, yet fierce to all threats.  They are highly intelligent to make that distinction.             Click here for more info on training

Sentinel Llamas can also be used with or without dogs to provide warning to the herd.  Some of the more aggressive guardian llamas may charge or stomp a small or medium dog, but they would be no match for a large dog or a pack of coyotes.  Llamas used for this purpose are usually very alert to changes in the environment and will sound an alert cry when something is threatening.  Their size alone (350-500 lbs) may be enough to ward off a threat by a small dog. 

Here at Tick Ridge Farm we use a combination of protective measures for our herd.  Our property had four board white fence, as it was set up for horses originally.  We have added two strands of electric fence to the outside.  We also own 2 LGDs.  Mandy, our Great Pyrenees, is a guardian supreme.  We haven't seen so much as a squirrel in our pastures since she came to live here.  Jessie, our young Anatolian Shepherd is a Guardian in Training.  We chose this combo because we live in a semi rural area of 5-10 acre plots.  Many neighbors have large dogs, (including the husky that breached the fence and 2 strands of hotwire....pre-Mandy)  There are also coyotes in this area.  These guardian dogs make me sleep so much easier! 

Jessie at 3 mo (40 lbs!  Big Puppy!)        Click here for Alaturka Anatolians & more information on the breed

   Things to consider carefully before getting started

Alpacas come in a color for every taste.  Will you choose a single color?  Will you go for all white, or will you have lots of colors?  Do you like spotted or pinto animals?  In general, for the sake of fiber harvesting alone, animals that are all one color (at least in their "blanket" area - across the back, hips and shoulders) are more desirable, however many people like spotted or pinto animals, finding them very flashy.  Shows have special classes for these animals.  What kind do you like?

Will you breed your animals or do you want to start a fleece herd? (significantly less expensive!)  How do you feel about your birthing skills?  Are you experienced in birthing other types of animals?  Are you committed to going to the seminars and classes to learn what you need to know to help your alpacas have a safe and healthy birth experience?  Many people find it helpful to start with a pair or trio of gelded (neutered) male alpacas to try taking care of them on a daily basis to see if they like it and can handle it.  Others jump right in with pregnant females and feel comfortable with that. 

How much money do you intend to spend?  How much disposable income do you have?  If you are planning to buy on credit, have you looked into all your options?  Have you reserved enough money for a rainy day?  Have you kept back enough money for future breedings and in case of a situation requiring extensive veterinary costs?   Showing is expensive.  Will you participate?  Marketing is expensive.  If you intend to sell your animals, how will you do that?   In considering these kinds of matters, it helps to remember "Manure Happens"!  Unexpected things may happen that will change your plan significantly.  How will a long string of male births affect your plan?  (Longest stretch we heard of was 19 boys in a row!  Now that's a lot of boys!)  How will the death of an animal affect you financially?  All kinds of things can and do happen every day.  Farms fail, it's a reality.  We don't want to paint a bleak picture here, but you also don't want to enter into this with Rose-colored-glasses.  You need to consider the "what if..." scenarios and plan accordingly.  In general, stretching yourself too thin to get started with alpacas is not a great idea.  You may get lucky and everything will go according to your ideal plan, or you may not.  In general, entering into this business with the intention of making large sums of money is not realistic.  Reality is that most farms lose money in their first 3 years or so.  The answers to the questions above will help you to make up your business plan. 

If you intend to sell animals, how will you market them?  There are marketing strategies for every personal taste and every pocketbook.  You will hear some say that these animals sell themselves.  While it may happen occasionally that a passerby will happen to pull up the driveway of an alpaca farm and write a check that day, it is unrealistic to think that will happen often.  Most farms participate in some form of marketing.  In the beginning, you may only need business cards, later on, you'll probably want a website, letterhead, a nice sign out front.... 

     This is a list of possible marketing strategies:

Farm Website	County Fair	State Fair
Word of mouth	products store	Purchased Website ie. Alpacanation
passersby	sign out front	mass mailings to other farms
e-mail solicitations	open houses you hold	mass mailings to individuals
Farm events	seminars you hold	friends and family (word of mouth)
Alpaca Publications	Farm & Ranch Guide	Farming magazine ads - publications other than alpaca
local news coverage	Alpaca shows	Sponsoring alpaca shows

     The possibilities are limited only by your imagination, but keep in mind, some are at significant cost, others are free.

Will you show your animals?   Showing and marketing go hand in hand.  Showing is marketing, and marketing can be showing.  Showing is a great place to meet others who also enjoy alpacas.  We have made many friends through our showing.  Showing can also be fun, especially when you win!  The best way to learn about shows is to go to them.  Visit a couple shows without taking animals so you have time to visit the displays of other farms, attend seminars, and sit and watch the halter classes where alpacas are judged on their conformation and fleece.  You can learn a lot about what alpacas should look like just by watching halter classes.  Performance classes are also offered at most larger shows.  Adults and children participate in classes for Showmanship, Public Relations, and obstacle course.   More information on showing is in our Living with Alpacas section under Showing.  Click here to go now.

Will you have your animals at your own farm or will you board them?  This is a very real consideration.  First, a few facts....Alpacas are kept in huge barns with luxurious facilities and air conditioning.  Alpacas are also kept in 'backyards" on 2 or 3 acres with a small shed for shelter.   Alpacas are kept on every kind of farm in between these two extremes.  Alpacas are kept on luscious green pastures.  Alpacas are kept on dry lot and never see grass.  (and everything in between)  Alpacas have farm managers hired to care for their every need and be with them every minute of each day.  Alpacas have owners that both work full time, and are not available during a normal day.  (and everything in between)  Alpacas require extensive veterinarian help in birthing.  Alpacas birth on their own in the pasture and walk their new cria to meet you at the gate.  (and everything in between)  Alpacas are owned by those who have years of experience in raising and birthing other livestock.  Alpacas are raised by people who never even owned a dog before.  (and everything in between)

     The important thing here is to decide what you want to do.  Write out a business plan.  Visit lots of farms, taking notes along the way (you'd be surprised how they can start to run together)  Watch what others have done.  Ask them what they'd do differently if they started over today.  These answers are the most important piece of information you will gather!  Realistically think about all the possibilities.  Do you want to move to a larger place?  What about hiring help?  Who will be there when you cannot?  If you board your animals you have just as many things to consider.  Will the owner or farm manager follow your wishes?  Will they be willing to teach you along the way?  Do you trust this person's knowledge of alpacas?  Will this person be fair in charging you to care for the animals?  Can you meet with those who already board there for their opinion?  Will this person show your animals for you if necessary?  Will this person market your animals if you desire to sell them?

Do you have a good veterinarian available?  A good relationship with a vet who is experienced with camelids is essential.  Most of the vets who work with large animals are traveling vets due to the considerable effort that would be required to bring large numbers of large animals TO them.  Both OSU vet hospitals (that is Ohio State University and Oregon State University) have research programs underway for camelids and so are highly regarded for their expertise.  Ohio, having the largest population of alpacas of any state, has many, many qualified vets.  We are lucky.  Large animal vets are scarce in some areas of the country. 

Things you will probably need to get started at your own farm  In the beginning, it is hard to think of all the things you are going to need when you bring your animals to your own farm.  Most people, us included, got to the part about the feeders and buckets, but were so excited about the animals, they stopped there! 

     Here are a few things you will need: (aside from the obvious ....barn, fence, etc)

buckets for water	heated buckets for winter water	feeders for grain supplement
free choice minerals	tubs or feeders for hay	various tubs for storing minerals, grain
mineral feeders	spare gates for impromptu pens	a birthing kit  click here for birthing section
scales	clean dry area for hay storage	vaccines
basic medical supplies	worming medications	books on alpaca care!
a trailer or van to transport	medical record keeping plan	halters and leads
barn calendar	record keeping for tax purposes	supply of tarps, bungees, zip-ties, etc
A GOOD VET	A MENTOR FARM	A TAX ACCOUNTANT

      More information on getting started in our FAQ section.  Click here

   How to choose your first alpacas

Of course, there are many things to consider in purchasing the animals themselves.  Our opinion is that there are a couple good ways to go, as well as many other possibilities that may work well in some instances.  As I read somewhere on someone's website when we were first starting....  Thou shalt not buy the first alpaca they see!  This is very true.  All alpacas are cute, especially the babies, they are irresistible!  But you really should do a little homework before getting out the checkbook. 

A Fiber Gelding herd  Gelded (neutered) male alpacas for use in fiber herds can be purchased at most farms.  When you consider that only the top 10% of all males born should be used for breeding to improve our national herd, that leaves lots of male alpacas that are really nice, but just do not make the cut to be in that elite top percentage.  They can be bought for somewhere around a thousand dollars to a few thousand.  They produce the same wonderful fleece that can be sold, all without the expense and worry of breeding and birthing.  For many, this is the perfect type of farm.

Pet Animals  Many alpaca farmers have a real concern about the thought of alpacas going to pet homes.  They envision the worst possibility that alpacas could be kept in bad circumstances.  This is a very valid concern.  Almost every species of animal has a rescue society because of the people who buy them and are not prepared to care for them properly.  Many animals that were considered cute or fad animals (think pot bellied pigs here) met with untimely deaths or miserable lives due to impulse purchases.  The alpaca industry as a whole wants to make sure that this does not happen to these animals that we all love so much.  I personally think we are at a greater risk just because they are so cute! 

     It is the opinion of Tick Ridge Farm that there can be advantages as well as the above-stated disadvantages for these animals.  We think alpacas can be kept as pets if the following good sense guidelines are followed. 

• Alpacas are not really pets, they are livestock.  Most of them do not really like to be petted or touched that much, so care needs to be taken in placing alpacas with families with young children.  Children, however, can learn alot about taking care of animals by having alpacas and can have great fun showing them.  Children are especially intrigued by the obstacle classes offered at some of the shows, and can have great fun training their alpacas to compete in this way.  For the right willing-to-learn animal, this home is a great placement.  4-H programs are available and have great success.  So, while we do need to keep in mind the long lifespan of these animals (ie.they are not going to be little forever!) alpacas can make good pets in these circumstances. 
• Alpacas don't like to be alone.  Single alpacas are miserable.  They are herd animals, and want to be with their own kind.  An alpaca kept with a herd of another species is not any happier.  The minimum number of alpacas is two, with three being much happier and well adjusted.  Lots of humming is not a good thing!
• Alpacas as pets still require the adequate veterinary care, housing, and nutrition that all alpacas need. 
• Alpacas cannot be kept with other species, for the most part.  They cannot be run with horses, donkeys, (even minis) or goats because of the rough way these animals tend to treat each other and the possibility of parasite transfer.  I have heard of alpacas with sheep, but most farms that raise both, keep them separate due to their different nutritional needs and issues with copper toxicity. 
• The animals intended to be used for this purpose need to be very carefully chosen to be the most receptive to learning and being handled by children.  Most breeders can readily identify the type that would be best. 
• Care needs to be taken that the alpacas are not fed too many treats, which will upset their digestion.
• Local ordinances need to be followed in regards to having livestock on small acreage.  Plots below 2-3 acres should not even be considered.  Even a group of 3 alpacas need an acre for an adequate pasture and small barn. 

Breeding Herds  Choosing animals for breeding purposes takes more effort than for the above mentioned uses.  Some of the personal preference things certainly come into play, (color, etc) but there is also so much more to consider.  the recommendations below may help if you are intending to purchase bred or maiden females. 

• Make sure all breeding alpacas you consider for purchase are ARI registered.  This is our National Registry in the USA.  All alpacas are DNA typed to confirm parentage, entered into a database and issued a certificate of lineage.  Without this registration, offspring the animal produces cannot be registered and are therefore of little value. In our opinion, all offspring should be registered, even males that will eventually be gelded.  It just gives our registry the full disclosure that is important when researching offspring and relatives of animals to purchase. 
• Learn what good alpacas should look like.  Buy books on the subject and read them, go to shows, watch the animals walk and learn what the judges are looking for in the way of conformation.  (The animal should conform closely to the ideal alpaca body shape)  Get your hands on lots of fleece.  Visit lots of farms, touching lots of animals.  Learn to part the fleece to look inside for crimp and brightness.  Learn the feel of a very dense alpaca.  Learn how soft is really soft.  If you are considering Suris, they have lots of different qualities of the fleece than Huacayas.  Learn those qualities.  Volunteering at fleece shows is a great way to learn!
• See the relatives of the animal you are considering.  You'll want to check out the parents, siblings and offspring of any animal you are considering.  Use the information you know about what an alpaca should look like to judge each animal.  If she is lacking a little on a couple counts, she may a good animal to consider.  If she is lacking on many counts, you may want to keep looking.  Remember, ribbons aren't everything. 
• Consider the lineage.  Some herdsires are popular, but not all they are cracked up to be.  Others are exquisite in every regard.  Know what you are getting. 
• Ask to see the medical records.  Is this a healthy animal?
• Ask to see the breeding records.  Does this girl catch on the first breeding, or does she require multiple breeding attempts to achieve a pregnancy?  If you are just getting started, you want the easy girls!  Leave the finicky ones to those with lots of years of experience!  Having to re-breed and re-breed for missed cycles, absorbed pregnancies, or abortions takes a lot of time.  Breeding seasons being what they are, your time is already limited.  We live in Central Ohio, where it gets really cold and really hot.  Some areas of the country have lots of one and none of the other, but we have both extreme cold and extreme heat.  Therefore, we try to breed for May-June or September-October births.  Is this girl on a spring or fall schedule now?  Switching can be difficult.  Babies in midwinter in many geographic locations can be difficult.
• How does this mother do with lactation?  Some Moms are milk machines, and others struggle.  If possible, check the medical records of her last cria to look at weight gain.  Crias should double their birthweight in about a month.  Does she have bottle babies in her past?  Carefully consider this girl, as you think of what feedings every three hours for 5 months would do to your schedule!
• Is this the first cria for this Female?  Maidens, as they are called, can have more difficult births in some instances.  Additionally, a record of previous births can help tremendously in determining when the Dam will deliver.  Some deliver consistently at 10 1/2 months, others go a full year, or even a little over.  Most develop a pattern.  so, with a maiden, you also would not get these clues as to what she MIGHT do this time.  You have no idea of her milking ability either.  You can, however, gain much information from what her mother, grandmother and aunts did in the way of birthing with ease or having plenty of milk, if you find a maiden you really would like to consider. 
• At what age was this female bred?  It is common practice to breed females very young on some farms, too young in our opinion.  Eighteen months is considered by many to be the absolute minimum age to consider breeding, with many farms and vets now leaning towards 2 years old. We prefer to wait until the female is 22-24 months. (The spring or fall season 2 years after her birth)  At this age, her growth should be complete and she should be mentally ready to be a good mother.  We personally would not consider a female for purchase that was bred before 18 months.  Twelve and 14 month old animals have lots of growing to do and do not need the hormones of pregnancy if they are going to grow and develop to their full potential.  These extremely young mothers often prove to have inadequate milk supply and they seem to reject their crias with greater frequency.  Some suspect they may also be subject to joint or other long range problems due to incomplete growth and development prior to that first pregnancy.  These are problems you do not want or need
• Does the farm offer a birth and reproductive guarantee?  These are commonplace in this industry especially if purchasing animals that have not yet bred.   Do not settle for less. 
• Will the farm support you in your efforts?  We cannot recommend enough to buy from a farm that will offer you the help you need to succeed.  You have lots of learning to do.  You will need help.  Can you call this farm with a question no matter how small?  Will they take their time to explain things to you? 

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